The Denham Garment Library

DGL DIGITAL

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Welcome to the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY digital archive. Take advantage of it now, while we're just getting started documenting and digitizing specimens and before we begin issuing library cards (there's a mountain of items for us to work through so expect this project to go forward in fits and starts).

DENHAM'S ONLNE ARCHIVE

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ABOUT THE DGL

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Before we created we collected.

But we collect not just to acquire; we collect to examine, analyze, and to learn. Decades in the making, the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY supplies the raw material for our research, design and development. We can’t benefit from tailoring traditions unless we understand them better, and new ideas crumble if they’re not built on a strong foundation. Each item in the library tells a story and each one represents a starting-point for our collections.

Jason Denham’s single-minded obsession with denim is the primary inspiration for the brand. His conviction that deep knowledge comes with extensive research is central to the whole studio’s design approach. The label’s own growing archive is home for an expansive collection of archetypal jean models as well as workwear, military clothing and travel gear from the last century all the way up until today.

We know our predecessors, our contemporaries and our competitors. We take inspiration from anyone and anyplace producing relevant ideas but we’re never content simply to reproduce someone else's approach even if that person's name has been safely lost to history. The research feeds our passion and our passion is to progress our tradition ever forward.

WORSHIP TRADITION. DESTROY CONVENTION

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: DENIM

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Black & Grey Railway Ticking Workpants Specimen A
On loan to the DGL from Simon "Barnzley" Armitage and the crew at A Child of the Jago

Black & Grey Railway Ticking Workpants Specimen B
On loan to the DGL from Simon "Barnzley" Armitage and the crew at A Child of the Jago

BORO INDIGO WORK-LEGGINGS "Vagrant" folk-garment Japan

Early twentieth century boro, or 'ragged' patched and mended work garb, used by farmers, lumberman and fisherman. Made of indigo dyed cotton.

BASIC SEAMAN'S PANT (in chambray)
Built in the classic style thought to be a precursor to denim workpants, preceding the "innovation" of added back pockets.

CAN'T BUST 'EM Heavy Black Twill Cinch-Back
Likely turn-of-the-century work pants for use by a miner or fireman. Courtesy Martijn

LEE WAIST OVERALLS

BIG E-TYPE LEVIS 5-Pocket

DEADSTOCK BIG-E TYPE LEVIS 5-pocket

DEADSTOCK RODEO CUT 14oz denim manufactured by Wrangler

Levi's Home Repair
Courtesy Barbera van Rest worn from age 14-18 with ongoing restoration performed (under objection) by her grandmother

EVIS (pre-lawsuit branding of Evisu) Courtesy Ma lvin Wix

EVISU 5-Pocket Courtesy Casper Reinders

OLD GLORY 5-Pocket Manufactured by Diesel

Junya Watanabe MAN by Comme des Garcon + Levi's

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: PANTS

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Austrian Work Pants: Courtesy Dandler & Son

Antique Japanese fireman's trousers (selvedge)

KING KOOL Bedford Side-Cinch
Likely turn-of-the-century

SWEET-ORR SOFT TWILL CHINO

DEADSTOCK BLUE BELL 5-Pocket

SQUALTEX Hunting Pant by Redhead
Estimated 50's-60's USA

The Feather Hunting Pant Springweight by Drybak
Estimated 50's-60's USA

Carhart Carpenter Pants: USA

TRADITIONAL TROUSER Morocco

Junya Watanabe MAN by Comme des Garcon
water-resistant "free hanging" half lining

Unproduced Sharpeye Regular-Fit Sampled under the Suiceyed label

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: JACKETS

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3-Button Uniform Sportcoat: United Kingdom courtesy of Dandler & Son

Moleskin Worker's Jacket: French
Turn-of-the-century featuring heavy darning and repair.

ARMY FIELD TUNIC: North Korea
This example shows high levels of consideration relative to both the exterior and interior construction. The specimen appears to have been made under conditions of fabric-shortage evidenced by the "hiding" of multicolor jungle camouflage on interior-backside pocket bags (out of view), the further employment of non-matching muslin parts within the interior and the ingenious employment of natural selvedge on the inner edge of the kick-pleat assembly.

FIELD SHIRT: WW2: Japan
Rustic manufacture including irregular cottage-cast plastic buttons. Breast-pocket flap used on inside pocket only reversing the typical arrangement.

BATTLE TUNIC: WW2 "Sahariana Type": Spanish
Front shoulder yokes adapted to double as breast pocket-flaps. Typical construction for hot climate uniforms including German Africacorps as well as stereotypical pith-helmet explorer civilian "safari" tunics. The style also features a triple-peaked back yoke secured with chevron stitch patterns.

BRITISH ROYAL NAVY JACKET Admiralty issued official design reference prototype from April, 1946 featuring original lending tags and lead seal.

Boy's 3-Button Melton Blazer: United Kingdom
Made on Bond Street by Rowes for Best Company circa 1971

AMISH DENIM JACKET Handmade USA
Covered "plain button" closures associated with the religious modesty of Amish culture.

B6 VARIANT with Eclair zip

B9 JACKET USN Edition manufactured by Eddie Bauer: 1944

BILLY KIDD STYLE SKI JACKET manufactured by Ski Levi's
Courtesy of Sander

BELGIAN ARMY WINTER SMOCK

REVERSIBLE HUNTER'S BLOUSON

VARSITY JACKET 1962
Courtesy of Sander

US NAVY COLDWEATHER DECK

BELSTAFF TRAILMASTER manufactured in the UK

INTERMEDIATE COLD WEATER [CWU]

POW MEDIC JACKET 1941
Traditional unlined variation of a men's 3-button civilian sportcoat executed in rough wool.

French Hunting Jacket (Boar & Stag): 1940's
Manufactured by "Vestments Au Gentlemen" featuring both hunting dogs and their quarry embossed randomly across the button set.

2-Piece Cotton Suit: French circa 1920's
Economical employment of redline selvedge "hidden" in low visibility areas of the construction including inner pocket facings.

German "Troop Testing" Leather Bomber/1992
Glove leather quality, vent-perforated lining, smocked action-back and Swiss Riri zippers.

French Air-force Pilot's Bomber Jacket/Circa 1980's
Features a six position boxed-button hole waist adjusting system.

Belgian Army Tunic/Wool

Style features stitchless linch-pin (cotter pin) button attachments.

British RAF Waiter's Tunic/1980's
Style features stitchless split-ring button attachments.

German Military Jacket/WW2/heavily modified following decomission

MA1/Alpha Cold Weather/American
Special collaboration edition courtesy of: Burg & Schild in Berlin

Pacific Tour"Souvenir Jacket": Japan

Cold Weather Field Jacket/Designed from M65 Pattern in OG-107
Style features onion-pattern quilted removable insulator (liner) unit with permanent armpit venting and button-in/button-out integration

Dutch Royal Marine NATO Field Coat in "Peacekeeper Blue"
Similar patterns and utility to M65 Field Jacket but with waterproof breathable removable liner.

UNMARKED Motorcycle Racer-Style Jacket: USA

VANSON Motorcycle Jacket: USA
with adjustable air-through venting system. Like Stone Island and select other brands, Vanson has always customized each garment produced with a one-of-a-kind serial number for tracking quality control and aftercare.

IXS Hot-Weather Motorcycle Jacket: Contemporary (2007): Germany

Sport Touring Motorcycle Jacket by Schuh/Germany
Raceline Series featuring stretch Keprotec panels (mfg b Schoeller Switzerland) combined with cowhide and body-armor.

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: SHIRTS

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Wool Army Shirt: Acquired in France
Features heavy systematic darning across high-wear areas, particularly the back collar and throat-button area of the neckband. Also features a dramatic long-dart repair running the entire length of the back panel.

BIG BUCK WORKSHIRT 1940's USA

ARMY REGULATION SHIRT/London Shrunk Fabric/USA/WW2

FLANNEL HIKING SHIRT from Alaska Sleeping Company: USA

Chief Petty Officer "CPO" Shirt by Campus USA

Blue Top Broadcloth Workshirt, USA

Workshirt by MW TRADEWEAR

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: TEES & SWEATS

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Dutch jersey undershirt under license by Jaeger.

Gustav Jaeger promoted his own concept of a "Sanitary Woolen System" for a healthier lifestyle in the late 1800's

Vintage Munsingwear, USA

Contemporary examples of the heritage Hong Kong label Chicks regionally famous for jersey underwear and wool sweaters in ultra-fine combled Swiss and US long-staple cotton.

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: MIDLAYERS/KNITS

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SEARS Design Laminate 3-Ply: USA

EDDIE BAUER Goose Down Vest: USA

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: UTILITY

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Danish Military Drysuit
manufactured by Musk Ox featuring full Gore Tex lamination

Type C-1 US Airforce Vest: 1944/45
"Emergency Sustenance Variation"

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: MISCELLANEOUS

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Archive Poster of Genius Group: Courtesy Adriano Goldmschmidt

Vintage Workwear Buttons: American

Buddy Lee Promotional Dolls: American

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: TOOLS

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16th Century Renaissance French Master Tailor's Shears

50cm long featuring a series both guild-markings as well as marks indicating the specific skill levels achieved by the master-tailor to whom they belonged.

From a selection assembled by J. Denham and presented at the
DENHAM STORE in Amsterdam.

Various Tailor's Shears [Collection: J. Denham]

Two pairs of anonymous shears obtained from a foundry in Greece

Various Tailor's Shears [Collection: L. Maher]

T. Wilkinson & Son Makers Schefield: UK
13.5-inch inlaid brass grips

T. Wilkinson & Son Makers Schefield: UK
13-inch inlaid brass grips

Medium Scale Tailor Shears from Germany, Austria or Czech Republic
Carrying maker's marks and thought to be from the first half of the 17th Century

Primative Tailor Shears from Germany, Austria or Czech Republic
Dated second half of the 17th Century

T. Wilkinson & Son Makers Schefield: UK
14.5-inch solid steel

J. Wiss & Sons: Newark New Jersey, USA LINK
13.5-inch solid steel with painted blue grips

T. Wilkinson & Son Makers Schefield: UK
14-inch ground steel marked "WILKINSON'S LINE BLADES"

Unmarked French or Belgian Tailor Shears
16-inch solid steel with 3-inch pivot acquired in Belgium.

R. Heinisch Inventor: Newark New Jersey, USA
12-inch solid steel Civil War era, patented 1839

R. Heinisch Inventor: Newark New Jersey, USA
14-inch solid steel

R. Heinisch Inventor: Newark New Jersey, USA
13-inch solid steel

Wendt & Seymour New York [silversmiths]
15-inch solid steel, Patented August 25th, 1863

R. Heinisch Inventor: Newark New Jersey, USA
13.75-inch solid steel with black painted grip

Marked (Partly) "Royal", New York
11.5-inches solid steel (lightweight)

French manufactured in Lyon circa 1920's
12" solid steel

1925 Sourced in Czech Republic
Hugo Linder, Delta Werk

Branded Pinking Shears Corp. N.Y.C. (Made in USA for UK market)
10.75-inches cast aluminium with removable steel pinked insets

Normally marketed within the USA under the J. Wiss & Sons brand

11-inch Contemporary French manufactured in Nogent
Acquired through Armurerie Renaud in Paris. See also LINK

10-inch Contemporary Japanese
Acquired through Tokyu Hands, Tokyo. Used in the Blue Salad Bar

Various Customized Tailor's Shears

Example of Guildsman's Shears from the collection of Jason Denham

Additional example of Guildsman's Shears in Presentation Box

Courtesy Joe Perry of Aerosmith

Handmade reproduction Brass Knuckle Guildsman's Shears in presentation Box.

Courtesy Niall Maher.

ARCHIVE CATEGORY: FEMALE

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Zelinka-Matlick New Look Sportcoat [Late 1940's]
7th Avenue New York as well as production in Paris and LondonDavid Zelinka and Max Matlick visted the Paris shows twice a year, but did not do direct copies. As David Zelinka put it, "I don't care to retrace the mistakes of other designers. I'd rather focus on our own adaptations and new interpretations.''

Note: This is essentially the position of the DENHAM design studio. Worship Tradition, Destroy Convention. (although we wouldn't describe the work of our predecessors or contemporaries as "mistakes" since they're often hugely inspiring to us, we remain uninterested in merely duplicating pre-existing concepts because we've got even more satisfying ways to spend our time).

Women's Fencing Doublet/American